Lift kits (leveling kits): FAQ


In this comment, we will try to answer frequently asked questions about spacers for increasing the car's ground clearance, which were mentioned in the comments and which may still be heard.
We select, develop, manufacture and install spacers to increase the ground clearance by 90% of vehicles from 1990 to the present.
At the moment, spacers for 7,000 cars and 33,000 modifications are selected and produced.
Spacers are made of imported high-strength and wear-resistant polyurethane.
The rigidity of Our spacers is 90-95 SHORE A. What would be easier to imagine, the same rigidity of a hockey puck. The front spacers are made of polyurethane with metal bushings, the rear ones are made of polyurethane.
The front spacers can withstand a load of 12 tons per piece, the rear spacers 5 tons. (which are shown in the video)
The operating temperature is from -50 to +70 C.
The average service life is about 5-7 years.
The warranty for spacers is 3 years without mileage limit.
We will try to answer your questions:
Why did nothing happen to the shock absorber when installing the spacer on the rear springs?
Not all cars have the option to install a rear shock absorber extension. On this car, the shock absorber is mounted through the lower silent block, and the upper shock absorber rod is mounted through the body. The shock absorber extension is simply not where to put it. You can, of course, put the house on the silent block, but then there will be a problem with the ABS sensor wire and the length of the brake hose, which will be energized to break, which in our opinion is more critical than the displacement of the rest zone of the shock absorber. Spacers of 20/30 mm will not significantly change the shock absorber stroke, and there will be no "Shock absorber Breakdown". And in some cases, on the contrary, it will only make it better for the shock absorber, since the resting point with the sagging of the springs changes, and it moves down, and when installing spacers, we return it to the working area. But in many cars, you can do without lengthening the shock absorber, since the manufacturer laid the standard shock absorber stroke with a margin.
Why when installing the spacers on the front did not release the bolt securing the front silentblocks of the front levers)?
When installing the spacers on the front, it is necessary to remove the load from the silenblocks.?
There is an opinion that when installing spacers, it is necessary to dissolve the sailetblocks. But this is not absolutely necessary. If you want, you can always ask to do it additionally. We do not do this because there is a high probability that when unscrewing it, it will break due to the boiling bolts in the bushings, turning the bushing of the silent block in the rubber body of the silent block. Since the cars are not new, this is quite common. The active mechanics know what they're talking about. It is more correct to make a dissolution when adjusting the descent / collapse, since the car is on a platform lift, and when the descent / collapse is necessary to roll the car.
I don't understand where the softness of the suspension comes from?
This is rather a subjective opinion, but in my experience it is quite common. I can't give you a more detailed answer here.
I drove on Korean autobaffers of the TTS company for five years-they do not add comfort for sure, the car becomes harder, not much but harder. In turns, yes enters more confidently, there are almost no breakdowns. They add a clearance of 1.5 cm. As a result, I removed the autobaffers and replaced the springs around them. I don't know how it feels on different car models. I have a 2013 Solaris and I didn't like the autobaffers. (With)-
Again, a subjective opinion. Some people like it, some don't. We drive ourselves on spacers and buffers, we like it. Buffers are best shown on jeeps and minivans, as they remove the roll, roll in turns and pecks when braking. It is also well shown on cars, where the trunk is often loaded a lot.
It's a pity, they didn't show how the angle of the stabilizer bar changes. After all, at a certain height of the spacers, they even need to be shortened.
Based on our experience, we can say with confidence that nothing will happen with the stabilization, since the principle of operation is completely different. Due to the fact that the stabilization rod will turn in the bushings and the struts will take the position they need. The worst thing that can happen is that the shock absorber mounting hole will not come together with the stabilization rack. The rack is pressed by the lever and everything will come together. In our memory, there was not a single car that had something wrong with the stabilization.
By the way, the rear "squeakers" were straight impressive thickness, cm and a half, and the rubber is softer than the material of the spacers.

We are talking about different cars, Nissan really has a regular "squeaker" of about 15-20 mm. Because of this, different spacers and coefficients are applied to the lifting of the car. On Serens, spacers are most often placed increased by 20 mm from the standard one, since it is there that the x2 coefficient is applied, and at the output we will get an increase of 40 mm.
How do the bolts stick on a Japanese car? ))))
Very many, mostly stabilizer bars and all your favorite silent blocks are not unscrewed.

So far, no question has been asked about the SHRUs, but we immediately want to answer that 20 \ 30 mm will practically not affect its work in any way. If you have it should " die " after 100 thousand miles, it will happen. We took measurements after installing the spacers, and the angle changes by a minor degree, or even minutes. But, unfortunately, on some cars there are exceptions, for example, at Sanyong, or when they went too far with the height.

What are the best spacers to put.
The easiest way to find out what height is needed is to raise the side of the car with two jacks, and measure the height with a tape measure. So you can more accurately determine what is necessary for you. But try not to choose more than 30 mm.
We try not to put spacers of 40 mm or more, because the height on the ruler and the height of how the car will look are completely different things. Spacers 40 or more are made specifically for cars whose springs have sunk, who load a lot and often, for those whose springs are unrealistically expensive or can not be found.
We are always guided by the rule: it is better not to raise a little, than to overdo it. You can't make a jeep out of a passenger car, it's easier to buy a jeep.

There are also questions about the fasteners and the diameter of the bushings in the spacers.
We will try to respond.
Basically, there are 8 types of fasteners for spacers-Stud m8x50, m8x70, m10x50, m10x70, bolt m8x50, m10x70, nut bushing, and screw m8.
The hairpin in Russia is made only by a few manufacturers, because of this, they are of the same size range and one knurling of slots. There are cars where hairpins with an increased knurling are used. Standard studs that come with spacers do not always correspond to this knurling, and you have to weld them to the support or fix them with cold welding.
Unfortunately, there is nothing we can do about this situation, as well as all manufacturers of spacers in our country. It is not realistic to make hairpins to all cars.

In the production of spacers, metal bushings are used that correspond to the height of the spacers. Often there is a question why the dimeter of the bushing is much larger than the dimeter of the bolt, for example: A bolt or a stud M8, and the bushing has a diameter of 13 mm.
We can make spacers with a smaller diameter of the bushings, but from the technical side this is not quite correct, since the area of contact of the m13 bushing with the body will be larger. Based on this, the m13 bushing will not rest on the edge of the body opening, thereby tearing or pushing it. The second point is that if you make a bushing with a diameter of 9 mm, it will be pressed into the m8 stud with a knurling of 9.5, breaking the bushing from the inside and cutting off the knurling slots. Since the spacer is compressed by the fastener between the support and the body, the spacer will not be displaced relative to the support. Because of all of the above, we use 13 mm bushings.
Why we don't use aluminum.
In Russia, there are manufacturers of spacers made of aluminum. The video shows what happens to the aluminum spacers: corrosion, destruction, deformation, etc. All due to the fact that the spacers are made from waste or second-hand raw materials. You can ask yourself how much block or sheet aluminum costs and how much turning/milling work costs, and you will understand that spacers made of good aluminum can not cost so much, even with mass production.

Are there any fakes for our products?
We have been working on increasing the clearance for quite a long time, and we know perfectly well all those who produce spacers. There are companies that develop and produce spacers themselves. Unfortunately, there are companies that steal ideas, make copies, and make products. They usually do not quite understand what is suitable for what, what fasteners are needed, the catalog is not properly posted. The material in fake spacers is often used (as you can see in the video) does not meet the stated requirements. Photo and video content of the site, copied from our site. Spacers may have a different color (mostly blue), but the quality will be much lower. How to distinguish our products from their analogues can be seen in the video.
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All good roads and high ground clearance.